Introduction
Bula.
I'm Renee.
I was born and raised in Fiji. Grew up there, have family there, and no matter how long I've lived in Queensland with my husband Konrad and our little boy Ocean, home is always home.
This guide comes to you through Helava Travel, the business Konrad and I built around our love for Fiji and our desire to help people experience it properly. Helava is a Rotuman word — pronounced heh-lava— meaning beautiful, stunning, radiant. My mother's family is from Rotuma, a small island that is part of Fiji but sits closer to Polynesia in its culture, its people and its soul.
I also have 20+ years in the travel industry. But what shaped me most wasn't any job. It was growing up in Fiji, eating at family tables, watching the way food here brings people together in the most beautiful way.
This trip was extra special because it was the first time we brought Ocean home. The first time he experienced Fiji properly — the food, the people, the culture, the love. Watching him eat nama for the first time. Watching him drink his first bu straight from the coconut. That meant everything to us. That is exactly what this guide is about.
Renee Leslie
Helava Travel · Fiji-born · Fiji at heart
Do this every
single day.
A note for vegans and vegetarians
Every single place in this list had vegan and vegetarian options. Fiji's food culture has a strong Indian influence which means plant-based eating is deeply woven into the cuisine here. From dhal and roti to ota, tavioka, coconut-based dishes and fresh tropical fruit, you will eat incredibly well.
“Give Fijian food a proper chance. You will not regret a single bite.”
— Renee
Start Here
Two food cultures,
side by side
The thing most visitors do not realise is that Fiji has two great food traditions running in parallel, and you should eat both.
Traditional Fijian food
Rooted in the ocean, the earth and the coconut. Root crops like dalo (taro) and tavioka (cassava). Fresh fish. Coconut cream, called lolo, in almost everything. Leaves used as both ingredient and wrapping. Cooking underground. It is a cuisine built around what the land and the sea actually give you, and it is far subtler than people expect.
Fijian Indian food
Arrived with indentured labourers from India starting in 1879, and became so completely embedded in everyday Fijian life that it is now as much part of the culture as the lovo. Curries, roti, dhal, chutneys, spice. Some of the best eating in the country happens in small, busy, unglamorous curry houses.
And Chinese food too
There is excellent Chinese food across Viti Levu, reflecting a long established Chinese community. Chop suey, called sapasui locally, turns up on menus everywhere.
“If you eat only one of these traditions, you have only met half the country.”
— Renee
Read This First
Before you eat anything,
read this
Fiji is not Bali. It is not Thailand. It is not anywhere else you have been.
Fiji gets compared to Southeast Asia constantly and it is the fastest route to a disappointing trip. These are completely different countries with different cultures, different economies and a completely different pace. Fiji is far less populated. There are fewer restaurants, fewer options, fewer crowds. Things move slower. That is the character of the place, not a fault in it.
The food will be genuinely different from what you know. Not better, not worse, different. It comes from what these islands actually grow and catch. Coconut cream appears where you would not expect it. A curry here is not the curry from your local place at home. The best thing you can do is stop measuring it against something familiar and just taste what is in front of you.
Costs work differently too
Fiji imports a great deal of what it uses, which means some things cost more than people expect from a Pacific island. Comparing Fiji prices to Bali prices will only frustrate you, because they are not comparable economies. And this is the important one: resort food comes with resort prices. A meal inside a resort will almost always cost significantly more than the same style of meal outside it, and it may well not taste like what you get at home either, because ingredients are imported and kitchens are catering to a very wide range of guests. That is not a criticism of resorts, it is simply how it works, and knowing it in advance stops it becoming a disappointment. The good news is that the moment you step outside the resort gate your money goes a very long way and the food gets more interesting. That is the whole reason this guide exists.
“I see so many people in Facebook groups asking about food in Fiji and then comparing it to what they eat back home. My advice? Be open minded. Fiji is full of flavours that sit nowhere else on earth.”
— Renee
Essential Fiji
If you don't know
where to start
Overwhelmed by the menu? Not sure what's authentically Fijian? Start here. These are the foods that matter most.
Fresh bu (green coconut)
Stop at any roadside vendor. Buy one. Drink it right there. This is the most Fijian thing you will do on this trip and it costs almost nothing. Once you've drunk the juice, ask them to crack it open and eat the soft flesh inside. Do this every single day.
Local curries and roti
Fiji has a deep Indian culinary heritage and the curries here are remarkable. Find a local curry house that's busy with locals, sit down and order. Chicken curry and roti with chutney. Don't overthink it.
Fresh seafood
Kokoda (raw fish in coconut milk), kai (local shellfish), nama (sea grapes), smoked baked kai, sashimi-fresh tuna. Fiji is surrounded by ocean and it shows on the plate.
Lovo
Food slow-cooked underground in an earth oven, wrapped in banana leaves. Most resorts have a lovo night. If you get the chance, do not say no.
Authentic Fijian food
Palusami (taro leaves in coconut cream), ota miti (fern in coconut milk), rourou, tavioka, vudi. These are the dishes that tell you where you are. Order them wherever you see them.
“If you only do one thing from this entire guide, let it be this: get in a car, drive away from the resort strip, and eat where locals eat. Everything else will follow.”
— Renee
The Other Half
Fijian Indian
food
Some of the best eating in Fiji happens in small, busy curry houses that no tourist has thought to walk into.
The curries here are remarkable. Chicken, goat, lamb, fish, dhal, vegetable. Fragrant, complex, generously spiced, served piping hot with roti or rice and chutney on the side. Roti in Fiji tends to be soft and thin, made fresh, and used to scoop.
How to find a good one: look for a place that is full of locals at lunchtime, not one with a tourist menu outside. You often do not need to look at the menu at all. Ask what is good today and order that.
Roti parcels
Wrapped to take away, these are one of the cheapest and best meals in the country.
Dhal and rice
The everyday staple, and comfort food at its finest.
Fish curry with coconut
Where the two cuisines meet, and it is superb.
Ask for mild
If you are unsure. Fijian Indian curries can carry real heat.
Carry cash
Many curry houses are cash only. Bring Fijian dollars.
Morning Ritual
Coffee in Fiji —
where to get your fix
Let's start with coffee because some of you need this before anything else.
Bean Bar Cafe at Crowne Plaza Wailoaloa
A beautiful little spot right inside the resort. Great coffee, fresh pastries, cold pressed juices and Kiti who works there is just the most gorgeous soul. Start your morning here if you're staying at the Crowne. You'll thank me.
Coffee Hub Nadi
A great option if you're in the Nadi area and want a proper sit-down coffee experience outside of the resort. Good coffee, relaxed vibe and a solid menu.
Coffee Hub in Suva City
The one to know if you're in the capital. Air-conditioned, huge menu variety and a great vibe. Perfect for a sit-down coffee and a bite before exploring the city.
GPH Bakery at Grand Pacific Hotel
Does a great coffee too. Just know you're paying Grand Pacific prices, which are grand. Worth an occasional treat though, especially sitting outside looking out at the Suva harbour.
Start Your Day
Breakfast
like a local
Before we get into the restaurants, let's talk breakfast because this is where so many visitors miss out. The local markets open early and what you'll find there is remarkable. Fresh tropical fruit, coconuts, cassava, homemade jams and local snacks — all picked and made by the people who live there.
Grab a bag of fresh pawpaw, watermelon, pineapple or whatever is in season, find a shady spot and eat it just like that. It beats a bowl of sugary cereal every single time.
And of course, your daily bu.
Fresh green coconut from a roadside vendor, cracked open right in front of you. This is non-negotiable. Do it every single day.
Pacific Islanders have been drinking coconut water for centuries — long before it appeared in a bottle on a supermarket shelf. It is packed with electrolytes, potassium and minerals and genuinely rehydrates you faster than water. Fijians have known this forever. So when you pull over and buy a fresh bu from a roadside vendor, you are not doing a trendy thing. You are doing an ancient thing. And you are doing it the right way.
A note on seasons and what's at the markets
Dry season (May to October) brings mangoes, pineapples, pawpaw, watermelon and citrus in abundance. Wet season (November to April) is when you'll find soursop, rambutan, breadfruit and jackfruit. Whatever is piled highest at the stalls is what's in season right now — and that is always what you should buy.
Area 01
Martintar, Nadi
Local spots most visitors never find
Small Plates Restaurant
FJD $10–35 · Everyone, especially those who want something local and unpretentious
Slow cooked pork belly
This place is owned by our good friend Tahn and honestly, it's one of those spots only locals know about, which is exactly why I'm telling you. Small, intimate and absolutely delicious.
The slow cooked pork belly is a must. So are the fried wontons — crispy, flavourful and addictive. Go on a Wednesday for 2-for-1 wontons. You're welcome.
It gets hot and the mozzies come out at night. Try to grab a seat inside near the fan. Bring repellent if you're sitting outside. Don't say I didn't warn you!
Location: Martintar, Nadi. Worth searching on Google Maps before you go.
Isa Lei Fijian Restaurant
FJD $10–25 · First-timers, vegetarians, anyone wanting a real local food experience
Kai in coconut cream
Nothing fancy here and that's exactly the point. If you want to eat genuine Fijian food in a simple, welcoming environment, Isa Lei is it.
My picks: the kai (local shellfish) served with tavioka, ota miti in coconut which is fresh fern cooked in coconut cream — so good — and please get the kumquat juice. Sweet, citrusy and totally unique to Fiji.
Location: Martintar, Nadi. Ask a local or your driver — everyone knows it.
Pacifica Delicacies
FJD $4–30 · Taking Fijian food home, trying everything in one hit
Pacifica Delicacies storefront
This one is a little different — it's a takeaway and Fijian food specialist, but I had to include it because it blew me away.
We ordered a whole spread: kokoda, ota, fresh kina (sea urchin), vudi banana, tavioka, and three types of fresh juice — mango coconut pineapple, soursop and watermelon coconut. Everything was incredible. The soursop juice? I could drink that every day for the rest of my life.
Location: Martintar, Nadi. Takeaway only — just show up.
Area 02
Wailoaloa, Nadi
Resort dining done properly
Crowne Plaza Nadi
Resort pricing · Families, couples, anyone who wants the full resort dining experience
We stayed here for a week and tried basically everything. Here's the breakdown.
Bean Bar Cafe
Great coffee, fresh pastries, cold pressed juices and Kiti who works there is just a beautiful soul. A lovely way to start any morning.
Harvest Buffet (Breakfast)
Fresh local fruits, every style of eggs, bacon for days, Fijian curries at breakfast (yes, at breakfast — yes, it's heaven), a donut station, waffles, pancakes, a chocolate fountain. Ocean felt at home and so did we.
Urban Sugar Lounge
Beautiful, modern, beachy, boho, Mediterranean right on the beachfront. The real highlight is the people — Waisake, Keli and the team are absolutely a vibe. Try all the cocktails, the Asian dumplings and the palusami lovo chicken burger. That Fijian twist on a burger is everything. Saturday nights: fire dancers, DJ, staff shows. Do not miss it.
La Bottega Italian
Fine dining, beautiful design, food that makes you close your eyes. Grilled octopus alla calabrese, semolina dusted prawns, focaccia with beetroot romesco, risotto al fungi in truffle sauce, house lasagna, tiramisu. Pair it with wine. Make a night of it. Book ahead — this one fills up.
Beach Club Wailoaloa
Casual · A long afternoon that turns into an evening
Great vibe right on the beach, good food, and local and international artists performing from time to time. One of the best spots for a long afternoon that turns into an evening.
Location: Wailoaloa Beach, Nadi. Right on the sand.
Graceroad Kitchen / Truemart
FJD $5–30 · Families, a casual meal, a reliable everyday option
Just a short walk from the Crowne. Supermarket downstairs, restaurant upstairs. Clean, air-conditioned, great service and really good food with a farm-to-table approach. We had pizzas and their Korean fried chicken which Ocean absolutely demolished. They also do kumquat juice here. Get it. You'll be obsessed.
Location: Short walk from Crowne Plaza Wailoaloa. Open daily.
Area 03
Vuda Marina
15 minutes from Nadi Airport — worth every minute of the drive
The Boatshed at Vuda Marina
Reasonable · A relaxed lunch or dinner off the tourist trail
Panko eggplant pita stack
About 15 minutes from Nadi International Airport heading toward Lautoka and genuinely worth every minute of the drive. The decor alone is worth coming for — nautical, warm, beautifully put together with real character. The marina views are gorgeous and the whole vibe just makes you exhale.
The staff were amazing. We had the fish and chips (fresh and light, not heavy), the eggplant pita stack and salt and pepper squid. All really good. This is the kind of place locals are quietly proud of.
You'll need a rental car or local driver to get here. Not walkable from anywhere touristy, but that's exactly what makes it feel special.
Location: Vuda Marina, approx 15 minutes from Nadi Airport toward Lautoka. Car or driver required.
Area 04
Denarau Island
Big resorts, waterfront dining, and one of Fiji's best restaurants
Sheraton Fiji Beach Resort
Breakfast FJD $60 · Dinner ~$120 · Big family feeds, theme nights, variety seekers
We stayed at the Sheraton and the dinner buffet at Island 619 was seriously impressive. Theme nights (we did Asian and Italian), live cooking stations, a pizza station and an enormous spread. We actually came back after checking out because the food was that good. Good vegetarian options across both buffets.
Radisson Blu Resort
FJD $49 breakfast buffet · Families, a great resort breakfast experience
Coconut lolo buns — Five. Zero regrets.
Similar to other resort breakfasts but my personal highlight were the coconut lolo buns. I'm pretty sure I had five. Soft, sweet, coconutty and dangerously good. They are a Fijian favourite for a reason — if you see them, do not walk past.
Club Wyndham Denarau
Varies · Self-contained stays, families, longer trips
Bu flesh — eat every bit
Daily ritual was fresh bu (green coconut) by the pool. The poolside pizzas were decent for a casual lunch. Landsman Restaurant at the beachfront has beautiful sunset views. Mamacitas at the front does a great Mexican menu too.
Port Denarau Marina
This strip is worth a dedicated evening walk.
Cardos
Right on the water, live music, steaks and seafood platter are the standouts. Weekends get busy — worth calling ahead.
Nandinas
If you haven't been to Nandinas, you haven't done Denarau properly. Authentic Fijian food and kava in the same place. Great vegetarian Fijian dishes too.
Mama's Pizza
These pizzas are massive. Family size means FAMILY SIZE. Always a hit with kids.
Sails
We got married here. But even without that history, Sails would still be my favourite restaurant in all of Fiji. Akesa and her team are next level. Order the Moala Stack — lobster, smoked eggplant, fresh fish in coconut cream. Book ahead. This one fills up.
Area 05
Malamala Beach Club
25 minutes from Port Denarau · World's first island beach club
Malamala Beach Club
Beach club pricing · Day trip from Nadi, snorkelling, great vibes
Seafood basket
About 25 minutes from Port Denarau by high-speed catamaran. The water around it is clear and clean. The snorkelling is genuinely good. This is a day trip you come for the experience, not the food.
Fish and chips were solid. The seafood basket had mussels, calamari and crumbed fish — honestly looked better than expected for a beach club on its own island in the Mamanucas.
Location: Malamala Island. Day trips depart from Port Denarau Marina. Book in advance — it sells out.
Nadi Town
Beyond the resort strip
Bohai Restaurant
Very reasonable · Big groups, families, great Asian food
When you want a big, flavourful, relaxed feed in Nadi Town, Bohai is it. Great Asian and Chinese dishes, generous portions and really good value. We shared everything with Ocean and he loved every single dish. That's always the best sign.
Location: Nadi Town centre.
Roadside BBQ Stands
Very reasonable · Late nights, the adventurous, the culturally curious
This one is not for everyone but if you're up for it, you absolutely have to try it at least once. You'll spot them at night — little roadside setups with smoke rising and the smell of charcoal in the air. BBQ lamb chops served with tavioka. Simple, smoky and so good. And if you've been out at the clubs? Forget the burger run. Pull up to a roadside BBQ stand and get yourself some chops. Trust me on this one.
Location: Spotted around Nadi Town and surrounding roads at night. You'll smell them before you see them.
Ask a Local: Nadi
Tell your driver or anyone at your resort that you want to eat where locals eat — not where tourists eat. Ask where they go for curry on their day off. The best meals we had in Nadi were never on any list and never in any guide. They came from people who live there. That's still the best tip I can give you.
The Road Trip
The drive from
Nadi to Suva
If you're self-driving from Nadi to Suva, please don't just put your head down and power through. The drive itself is part of the experience.
You'll pass through villages, past sugarcane fields, along stretches of coast and through little towns that most tourists never see. Pull over at the fruit and vegetable stands along the way. They are colourful, fresh and run by local families who genuinely appreciate your support. Fresh bu is everywhere. Stop, buy one, take it all in.
This is Fiji outside the resort bubble. It's beautiful.
Area 06
Sigatoka &
the Coral Coast
King Singh Restaurant
Very reasonable · An authentic Fijian curry experience on the road
We stopped in Sigatoka Town for lunch and this is where we ended up and honestly, it was exactly what we needed. Fiji curries with roti and chutneys. We tried the chicken curry and the lamb curry. Both were delicious and the prices were great. Simple, satisfying and very real. If you're driving through Sigatoka, stop here.
Location: Sigatoka Town. Easy to find in the main town area.
Crab Shack
Mud crab FJD $75 · Korotogo, Coral Coast
I have a soft spot for this place because as kids we used to holiday at this exact spot on the Coral Coast. Now there's the Crab Shack and the views alone are worth the stop — million dollar doesn't even cover it. Go for the full experience and enjoy every second of it.
Location: Korotogo, Coral Coast. On the main Queens Road heading from Nadi toward Suva.
Area 07
Suva
Fiji's capital — the most underrated food city in the Pacific
Quick note before we dive in
You definitely need a car to get around Suva properly. Suva has so much more to offer if you're willing to venture out from the main hotels. Here's where to go.
Grand Pacific Hotel (GPH)
Sunset drinks · Harbour views, a special occasion treat
I highly recommend sunset drinks at the GPH with nibbles. Sit outside, watch the Suva harbour light up as the sun goes down and just soak it all in. Their bakery is also great for a coffee and a pastry — just expect Grand Pacific prices. Worth the occasional splurge.
Location: Victoria Parade, Suva. Right on the waterfront.
Albert Park Stadium Kiosks
FJD $9.50 per serve · The most authentic local curry experience in Suva
That spread. That price.
Tucked underneath Albert Park Stadium are two little kiosk restaurants serving curries and the biggest rotis you have ever seen in your life. We had everything on the menu. All delicious.
It's nothing fancy. You're sitting outside, open air, no cushioned seats. But the food is genuinely outstanding and this is as local and authentic as it gets in Suva.
Location: Underneath Albert Park Stadium, central Suva. Ask a local — they'll point you straight there.
Nui Grillz at Fiji Golf Club, Vatuwaqa
Mid range · Authentic Fijian seafood and dishes — a special lunch or dinner
Nama — Ocean had three helpings
I have to give this one more context because it is personal. I grew up at the Fiji Golf Club. My whole family played golf and this place was genuinely my second home. So walking back in as an adult, sitting upstairs overlooking that course, and then being completely blown away by the food? That felt like something.
We had: nama in coconut milk (Ocean absolutely loved this), ota miti, smoked baked kai, lamb rourou with fried tavioka, kokoda and charred eggplant in miti. Every single dish was incredible.
You do not need to be a golfer to eat here. You just need to know it exists, which most visitors never do. Now you do.
Location: Fiji Golf Club, Vatuwaqa, Suva. Car required.
Smoked baked kai. Still thinking about it.
Zamzam's, Samabula
Mid range
If you want an incredible Fijian curry experience in a comfortable, air-conditioned setting, Zamzam's in Samabula is the one. The variety is remarkable — meat, vegetable and seafood curries. Everything we tried was amazing.
Samabula, Suva. A short drive from the city centre.
An Pho Vietnamese, Laucala Bay
Mid to upper range
One of the best meals I had the entire trip and I did not see it coming. Laksa, papaya salad, crispy skin chicken, sweet and sour chicken, Hong Kong roast pork, fried rice, ginger black bean fish, and for dessert creme caramel and vudi with sago. Everything was divine.
Laucala Bay, Suva. Car recommended.
Yangs at BSP Food Court
Very reasonable
A Suva institution. Crispy roast pork, BBQ pork, chicken and roast duck with rice. Generous serves and always busy around lunch. The food court around it also has a great mix of curries and Asian dishes.
BSP Suva Central Food Court, central Suva.
The Bar-Belle at Rabuka Gym
Mid range
Owned by Angie and her team. Every Fijian seafood you can think of is on that menu. My favourite: the Nama Mama dish — nama (sea grapes) in coconut milk with tuna. It is its own thing entirely. Also: coconut pie. Do not leave without it.
Rabuka Gym, Suva Seaside.
Golden Ocean, Flagstaff
Mid range
Seafood basket, sushi trays with tuna poke and sashimi plates. All of it really good. A solid Suva favourite worth adding to your list if you're in the Flagstaff area.
Flagstaff, Suva.
Chopsticks, Flagstaff
Very reasonable
Upstairs in Flagstaff, nothing fancy about the setting — and that is completely beside the point because the food is the whole reason you're here. Enormous serves. Proper Chinese home-style cooking done really well. Don't expect atmosphere. Do expect to leave very full and very happy.
Flagstaff, Suva. Upstairs. Car recommended.
Ask a Local: Suva
Suva has a remarkable range of food — from $5 curry houses to proper fine dining with harbour views. The best thing you can do is ask locals where they are eating right now. Ask your driver, ask hotel staff, ask anyone. Suva's food scene moves and the people who live there will always have the best lead.
Do This One Thing
The markets,
and what is in season
If you do one food thing in Fiji that is not a restaurant, make it a market morning.
Go early, ideally on a weekday morning when everything is fresh and the market is fully alive. Bring cash in small notes. Talk to people. Ask what things are and how to cook them, because the vendors will happily tell you and most are delighted to be asked.
Suva Municipal Market
The biggest and best in the country. If you are in the capital, this is not optional.
Nadi Town Market
Easy to reach from the resorts, and a genuine working market rather than a tourist one.
Namaka Market
Just outside Nadi. Smaller, local and very good for fruit.
Sigatoka Market
A natural stop if you are driving the Coral Coast.
Lautoka Market
Worth a morning if you want to see everyday Fijian town life.
Please do not haggle hard
Prices are already low, margins are thin, and every dollar goes directly to a family. Pay what is asked.
The fruit in Fiji is remarkable and it changes through the year. The rule at any market is simple: buy whatever is piled highest, because that is what is in season and it will be the best thing there.
Across the year you will find papaya, pineapple, banana, mango, watermelon, soursop, rambutan, breadfruit, jackfruit, guava, passionfruit and citrus. Ivi, sometimes called Polynesian or Tahitian chestnut, turns up seasonally and is worth trying if you see it. Seasonality shifts by region and by year, so rather than working off a calendar, just look at what the market ladies have the most of and follow that.
Not Food, But Close
Kava
Not food, but it belongs in any conversation about Fijian hospitality.
Kava, called yaqona in Fijian, is made from the ground root of a pepper plant, mixed with water in a large wooden bowl called a tanoa and served in a small bowl called a bilo. It tastes earthy and slightly bitter and will make your lips feel mildly numb. The effect is calming rather than intoxicating.
If you are offered kava, say yes
Being invited into a kava session is one of the most genuine acts of welcome in Fijian culture. Sit down, follow what everyone else is doing with the clapping, and drink your bilo in one go rather than sipping.
Practical Guide
Supermarkets —
don't skip these
Knowing where to shop in Fiji can save you a lot of money and stress, especially if you're travelling with kids.
The one to know
Truemart by Graceroads
You'll find them everywhere in Fiji now and each one is clean, modern and well-stocked. Groceries, fresh fruit and veg, bakery, alcohol, imported goods. Most locations also have a restaurant attached.
Nadi locations:
Nasoso (near airport), Votualevu, Wailoaloa, Denarau Bypass Road, just outside Nadi Town heading toward Suva
Rewa yoghurts — grab a stack
Always buy bottled water. Fiji belly is real and it will ruin your holiday. Same goes for ice cubes at smaller local spots.
Try the Fijian brands. Rewa butter, Rewa yoghurt — Ocean had one every day. Local produce is always cheaper than imported.
Fiji's local beers: Vonu, Fiji Bitter and Fiji Gold. They are genuinely great and taste even better sitting somewhere beautiful.
Practical
Practical
food notes
Water
Drink bottled or filtered water only. Even growing up in Fiji I do not drink the tap water when I go back. Locals have built a tolerance over a lifetime that visitors have not had time to develop. Be mindful of ice at very small local spots too.
Vegetarian
Easy, thanks to the Indian influence, with dhal, vegetable curries and roti everywhere.
Vegan
Harder, because corned beef and fish turn up in dishes you might not expect. Ask.
Gluten free
Manageable, with root crops and rice as the base of so many meals.
Serious allergies
Be explicit and check carefully, particularly at smaller venues and buffets.
Family Travel
Travelling
with kids
“Fijians are wonderful with children. Not in a performative, resort-activity kind of way. In a deeply genuine, cultural way.”
— Renee
Children in Fiji are considered a gift and treated as such by everyone, everywhere. It doesn't matter if you're at a fine dining restaurant, a roadside curry house, a local market or a village. The moment a Fijian sees your child, something shifts. Their whole face opens up.
Ocean was passed around like the most loved little parcel more times than I can count. And every single time, Konrad and I got to sit down, eat a hot meal in peace and just breathe. It sounds small. It is actually enormous.
High chairs
Most resorts and bigger restaurants have them. If they don't, don't stress — the staff will find a way.
Formula
If your little one is on a specific formula, bring it from home. Fiji's options are limited. Standard cow's milk formula is available in most supermarkets but specialty formulas are rare.
Nappies
Huggies at Truemart — including swim nappies. Pack a good supply but you're not completely stuck if you run out.
Rewa yoghurts
Grab the small individual ones from the supermarket. Great for little ones and honestly for you too.
Fresh bu
Buy from roadside stalls and local markets, not just at the resort. Pull over, let them open it right there. And if Fiji belly hits, green coconut water is nature's electrolyte drink.
Markets
Namaka Market and Nadi Town Market are must-visits. Everything is local, seasonal and fresh — and every dollar you spend goes directly to a local family.
Etiquette
Eating
with people
Food in Fiji is a language of welcome. If someone feeds you, they are telling you something.
Take some, always
If you are offered food, take some, even a small amount. A flat refusal can be read as rejecting the person.
Wait to be seated
In a home or village, wait to be shown where to sit. There is often an order to it.
Use your right hand
Eating with your hands is normal and traditional. Use your right hand.
Grace comes first
Grace is commonly said before eating. Wait, and follow.
Elders first
Do not start before the elders or hosts do.
Kana vinaka
It means delicious. Use it and watch what happens.
Honest Numbers
What it
cost us
People always ask this and nobody ever answers it honestly. So here it is. A day of eating well in Fiji, for two adults and a toddler:
Market fruit for breakfast — FJD $5
Curry house lunch with roti — FJD $25–35
Roadside bu stops — FJD $1–2 each
Simple local dinner — FJD $20–40
Resort or cafe breakfast — FJD $15–30 per adult
Casual lunch (Graceroad / marina) — FJD $20–50
Mid-range dinner with drinks — FJD $80–120
Sails, La Bottega or An Pho Suva
For two adults with drinks
Breakfast, lunch and dinner inside the resort
For two adults
A note on resort meal plans
On a remote island with no alternative they usually make sense. On the mainland where you can walk out and eat, they are often poor value and they quietly cut you off from the best food in the country. Do the maths for your specific property. These figures are estimates to give you a feel for it, not quotes — prices move with season, location and venue, so always check.
“We had a FJD $1 roti parcel for breakfast and a Moala Stack for dinner in the same 24 hours and both were perfect.”
— Renee
Non-Negotiables
The eight
non-negotiables
If you eat nothing else on this list, eat these. Specific dishes, specific places.
Kokoda
Raw fish in coconut cream and citrus. Fiji on a plate. Order it wherever you see it.
Smoked baked kai at Nui Grillz
Fiji Golf Club, Vatuwaqa, Suva. Still thinking about it. That is all.
The Moala Stack at Sails
Port Denarau. Lobster, smoked eggplant and fresh fish in coconut cream.
Nama Mama at Bar-Belle
Central Suva. Nama in coconut milk with tuna. Pure Fijian soul food, and exactly the sort of thing you will not find at a resort.
Coconut lolo buns
Soft, sweet, fluffy. I had five at the Radisson Blu breakfast. Zero regrets.
Fresh bu
Green coconut from a roadside vendor. Do this every single day you are there.
Palusami
Taro leaves in coconut cream. Rich, soft and deeply comforting.
Fijian curry and roti
From a local curry house, not a hotel. Do not leave Fiji without this.
Know Before You Go
Fijian Food
Glossary
First time in Fiji? These are the words you'll see on menus and hear locals talking about. Don't be shy about ordering something you've never tried before. That's the whole point.
Babakau
Fijian fried bread, golden and slightly sweet. Eaten with butter, jam or just tea. It is everywhere, and it is worth it.
Bu
Fresh green coconut. Drink the water straight from the shell, then hand it back and ask them to crack it open so you can eat the soft jelly flesh inside, using a piece of the husk as a spoon.
Cassava / Tavioka
Cassava root, boiled or fried. Starchy, filling and eaten with almost everything. Think of it as Fiji's version of bread or potato.
Dalo
Taro. A root crop at the base of the whole cuisine, boiled, roasted or fried. It matters culturally as well as nutritionally, and even has its own day, celebrated on the first full moon in May.
Dhal
Spiced lentil curry, a staple from Fiji's Indian culinary heritage. Usually served with roti.
Duruka
Known as Fijian asparagus, though it is not asparagus at all. Duruka is the unopened flower of a cane shoot, a relative of sugar cane. There are red and green varieties, the red firmer and the green softer. It is seasonal and the season is short, so ask at the market.
Fish suruwa
A fish curry made with coconut milk and aromatic spices. It sits right at the meeting point of Fiji's two food cultures and shows how thoroughly they have blended.
Kai
A small freshwater shellfish, usually cooked in coconut cream. The smoked baked kai at Nui Grillz in Suva is one of the best things I have eaten anywhere. Also excellent in coconut cream at Isa Lei in Nadi.
Kina
Sea urchin. Eaten fresh, straight from the shell. Briny, oceanic and very much an acquired taste but absolutely worth trying.
Kokoda
Pronounced ko-KON-da, because in Fijian a d is said as nd. Raw fish cured in lime or lemon juice, then folded through fresh coconut cream with chilli, tomato, onion and spring onion. Fiji should be as famous for kokoda as Peru is for ceviche.
Kumquat juice
A sweet, tangy fresh juice made from kumquats. Totally unique to Fiji. Order it everywhere you see it.
Lovo
Not a dish so much as a method, and an occasion. A pit is dug and lined with coconut husks, stones are heated on top, then meat, fish and root vegetables wrapped in banana and taro leaves are laid on the stones, covered with earth and left to cook for two to three hours. If you are invited to one, accept without hesitating.
Nama
Commonly called sea grapes, though that name is a little misleading. Nama is actually a type of seaweed, harvested from shallow waters, that grows in tiny bright green clusters that pop between your teeth with a clean, salty burst. Usually served fresh with coconut cream, chilli and lemon or lime.
Ota
A wild edible fern, usually served in coconut cream, sometimes with tinned fish or chilli. You will see it in bundles at every market. Fresh, green and completely unlike anything you get at home.
Palusami
Young taro leaves wrapped around a filling of coconut cream, onion and often corned beef or fish, then baked, traditionally in the lovo. Rich, soft and deeply comforting.
Roti
Soft flatbread from Fiji's Indian community. Eaten for breakfast, lunch, dinner, anytime. With curry and chutneys it is one of the best things you will eat.
Rourou
Closely related to palusami and often confused with it, but not the same thing. Rourou is dalo (taro) leaves cooked down in coconut milk until creamy, a bit like a very good creamed spinach. Everyday food rather than special occasion food.
Soursop
A tropical fruit with a soft white flesh and a flavour somewhere between strawberry and pineapple. Often made into juice. Try it at Pacifica Delicacies.
Vakalolo
A traditional dessert of grated cassava, coconut milk and sugar, often wrapped in banana leaves and steamed or baked.
Vudi
A cooking banana or plantain, shorter and starchier than the ones you get at home. Boil it, steam it or fry it — it works beautifully all three ways.
Questions
Food questions,
answered
Is the food in Fiji spicy?
Traditional Fijian food is generally mild. Fijian Indian curries can carry real heat, but you can always ask for mild and they will make it mild.
Can I drink the tap water in Fiji?
Drink bottled or filtered water only. Even having grown up in Fiji, I do not drink the tap water when I go back. Be mindful of ice at very small local spots too.
Is it safe to eat at roadside stalls and markets?
Yes, and you should. Roadside barbecue, fresh bu and market fruit are some of the best eating in the country. Use the same judgement you would anywhere: busy is good, freshly cooked is good.
Is Fiji good for vegetarians and vegans?
Vegetarian eating is easy thanks to the Indian influence, with dhal, vegetable curries and roti everywhere. Vegan is harder, because corned beef and fish turn up in dishes you might not expect, so ask.
Should I buy a resort meal plan?
On a remote island with no alternative, usually yes. On the mainland, where you can walk out and eat, they are often poor value and they cut you off from the best food in the country.
What should I eat first?
Fresh bu from a roadside vendor, on your first day. It costs almost nothing and it is the most Fijian thing you will do on the trip.
How much does eating out cost in Fiji?
Two adults eating at local curry houses, markets and roadside stalls can eat well on FJD $50 to $80 a day. A special occasion dinner with drinks runs FJD $150 to $250. Full resort dining is FJD $250 and up.
Is Fiji good for eating with kids?
Very. Fijian food is generally mild unless it is Indian, fresh bu is nature's electrolyte drink and kids love it, and market fruit is cheap and easy. Most places have high chairs, and where they do not, staff will find a way.
Vinaka
Come open.
Leave full.
What I know for sure after a lifetime of eating in Fiji is this: try the local food. Not just once, not just the safe options. Really try it. Order the nama. Ask what the kai is served with today. Say yes to the palusami. Let your kids taste the fresh bu straight from the shell.
My biggest piece of advice? Hire a car and drive. Stop at the fruit stalls on the side of the road. Talk to locals. The best meals we had on this trip were never on any list. They came from a tip, a recommendation, a stranger pointing us in the right direction. That's how you eat well in Fiji.
Ask locals where they eat. Your driver, the housekeeping staff, the woman at the market, anyone. The best food in Fiji is almost never on a published list. It is the place three streets back that somebody's cousin runs. It is the stall that only sets up on a Tuesday. It is whatever is being cooked at the back of the market at eleven in the morning. Those are the meals you will still be talking about in a year.
Come eat with me. Kana mada.
Renee · Helava Travel
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